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Monday 4th August

Monday 4th August

We slept well at Hotel Island under the comfy duvets in the large room. It was a good thing that we got this large room at the end of the holiday, as it helped us relax and prepare mentally for going home.

Breakfast at Hotel Island was pleasant and they presented a tremendous variety of food at the buffet. Coffee very good. Service was prompt, polite, and friendly.

As it was raining and none too warm, so there was not much else which appealed. After an attempt to visit some museums we soon gave up (they were all closed as it was Monday!) and decided to go on a Viking longboat trip around the Reykjavik bay. We just had time to visit the big church on top of the hill before the trip. The church, (Hallgrim's Church), is a vantage point and seems like a natural landmark and central point of the city. An elevator ride to the tower at the top costs about £2 per person and the view is quite absorbing, revealing the city's unusual architecture and the proximity to the sea. We just missed the bells clanging on the hour as we made our descent to ground level. The interior of the church is worth seeing: it is very light and airy, blond wood and light metal and stone. The church has a modern, slightly unfinished look to it but is no less appealing for that. There is something relaxing and comforting about a bright, welcoming church although some of the furniture was very functional minimalist Scandinavian and a bit too IKEA for my taste.

The church has an enormous organ in it which weighs 25 tons and has more pipes and valves than you would believe. We plan to go back one day to attend a concert in the church, as they have quite a few. The sound must be truly dramatic and inspiring when the organ is played in earnest.

The Viking longboat trip was interesting, if only to experience the smoothness and unflappable feel of the boat. I had expected it to pitch about like a waterlogged soapdish in a bath full of children but instead it went where it was pointed and glided through the water straight and clean like a swan. Once far enough from land, the captain hoisted the sail and the boat continued under wind power. The bay around Reykjavik is not particularly noteworthy, and the weather gave the trip a slightly clammy air. After two and a half hours huddled in the hull feeling cold we were glad to be off the boat, but had enjoyed the experience. Apparently the skipper had spent years building it by hand as a labour of love, and apart from its diesel engine (for use when the wind was not blowing favourably) it was entirely composed of Norwegian pine trees, rivets, and bits of old rope. An impressive achievement and a good looking piece of ocean furniture to boot. Cost: approx £20 per person for the trip.

After this, we felt like we needed warming up and as it was only a short distance from the hotel, we collected (free) tickets from Hotel Island for the large swimming pool we had visited before and decided, after little deliberation, to spend what was left of the day hot-tubbing, swimming and playing on the slide. Afterwards Laekjarbrekka beckoned again and we indulged in more gastronomic delights. This time, however, after another excellent starter of the lobster tails with scallops, I decided to try some pan-fried fish (it might have been John Dory, but I failed to make a note of it), with a herb crust which sounded good, but was disappointing. The fish was flaky and had such a subtle flavour that the herbs overpowered it I think too much basil was used. The sauce was also too harsh for the fish. To make up for it I had another bash at the excellent chocolate cake with cream and strawberries, rounding it all off with coffee.

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